Engine Stand DIY

Still waiting around so I figured, hey, why not start fucking around with my engine. Did some searching and came up with the following DIY engine stand. I made some modifications and I am going to post all of my instructions so it's easier for you than the bbs history shows, although it's pretty easy to figure it out.

Parts:
2x6's (I used random scrap wood from a construction site)
3 3/4" floor flanges
3 3/4" x 10" galvanized pipe
3 3/4" T's for pipe
1 1/2 x 24" threaded rod. Ask for where the random steel rods and metal are, it is usually close to the nuts and bolts but not always. You really only need 16" but they only sold it in 1' or 2' sections at my local hardware store. This is for the front mount
1 3/8 x 5" Bolt. For the rear mount
5 Fender washers
2 regular 3/8 washers
2 1/2 nuts
1" Deck Screws.

I went with 10" because I wanted to be able to have the kickstand go all the way down and it sounded like for some 8" wasn't enough.

You want the wood to be cut up as follows:
2 20x6x2
2 16x6x2

Go ahead and make a frame out of the four pieces with the 16" pieces on top. The floor flanges will be mounted on the 16" pieces. On one 16" piece, mark the center and then measure out 5 3/8 from the center of the piece. This is dead center of the flanges. Go ahead and screw the flanges down. This is easier without the pipes in.

Now go ahead and put two of the pipes in and their respective T's. Lining the t's up of course so the threaded rod can go through the engine mount. Find a friend for this next part. Grab your engine and line it up with the posts. Take the threaded rod and slide it through, starting from the rear tire side (NOT the kickstart lever side), make sure to put one of the fender washers and nuts on at the end you are not sliding through. As it goes through the first t but before it enters the engine mount put another fender washer. Push it through the engine. Before it enters the next t put another fender washer. As it comes out the other side put another fender washer and the last nut. Go ahead and tighten up the bolts a little. I took a hacksaw and this point and cut off the extra part of the rod I didn't need.

Now your engine is swinging on the front mount. From here put together the other pipe, t, and flange, prior to screwing it in. Swing up the engine. Line up the t with the rear mount. I put the t on the left side of the engine mount. This should be obvious because it won't fit on the right side. Push the 3/8 x 5 bolt through and put the nut on it. No need to tighten beyond hand tight at this point. Move the rear pipe and flange around until it looks straight and sits flat on your 2x6. Take a pen and draw a circle around the flange. Go ahead and pull out the bolt and let your engine swing back down. Take out the pipe and t and then put the flange back where you made your circle. Drill your screws and then redo. I did it this way because it was easier to screw the flange down with the pipe out of the way. You could of course do it after you have aligned everything with the engine and T.

I also mounted my flanges on top of a block on top of the 2x6. I did this because I wanted to use longer than 1" deck screws and figured 2 1/2" deck screws through 2 pieces of plywood would hold for sure. Probably overkill but when I first started this project I started out only with the 16" pieces and not the cross pieces. Kind of stupid. I would probably not do the blocks if I was to start this over.

This only cost me about $30 with the price of metal today.