Almost there!

Well a lot has happened! I got the body and assorted parts back from the painter on thursday and pretty much since then I have been full throttle getting her back together. Sorry if I didn't really take pictures of the putting back together but I was really really focused on finishing it up as quickly as possible.

Here's some pics for your enjoyment, ok mostly mine:




So as you can see I have it all put back together except the mounting of the engine. Ever since the flywheel nut disaster I've had some problems getting the engine back together. Mostly the damn clutch nut keeps stripping. I'm waiting on a new one from Dave at scootermercato.com so I can put it all back together again and install it on this beauty.

Here's what I learned from putting this thing back together.

1. When installing the legshield trim use masking tape (or painter's tape) to cover up the new paint job, otherwise you will end up with some good scratches like I did, that now need to be touched up.

2. The leg shield trim is not that hard to do, just follow the instructions in the shop manuals. Although I couldn't find one specific to the 150 Super I did read the one for the PX which was very useful for all sorts of maintanence questions. An absolute must read.

3. When installing the wiring, I had three bundles of three wires each which made it much easier. Make sure to install two of the bundles on the throttle side of the headset. The clutch side is rather congested with 2 gear cables and the clutch cable. I made it work on that side with two bundles but it wasn't worth the hassle. I was too far along to change it.

4. Give yourself tons of extra wire! I had to solder on some lenghts to the headset to reach the ignition switch terminals. Not a big deal but a little bit of a hassle.

5. Tell your paint guy to cover up half of the rear brake pedal arm. Also tell him to cover up the headset pieces for the front fork.

6. Go ahead and install the clutch and throttle tubes on the headset first before installing the headset on the body. Make sure you have the tubes on there facing the right direction. Not a big deal on the clutch side because it's obvious but on the throttle side it is easy to get the holes for the cables on the wrong side.

Otherwise everything else was real straight forward for me and I really didn't have any major problems putting it all back together. Now for the engine and too see if my electic system works. Yikes.

It's alive!!!!!

WOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't fucking believe it. I decided to go ahead and try to start my engine today. She started up first kick!



Here's how I did it while still on the stand. Installed the muffler, otherwise things would be pretty damn loud and smokey. Second, I fitted a barb fitting on the gas line (tank side) and another adaptor to give me a bigger opening. I am going to fit this to a big plastic cup or small bucket later so I can have more fuel. I hooked up my old choke cable and throttle cable so I could pull on those. In the video above you can see the gas in a plastic jar There is a barb with O-rings and a "nut" on the bottom of that jar. The barb fit perfectly in between the holes on that table so I was able to feed the gas and leave the jar on the table.

For the electrics I have the 5 wire euro stator. The blue is power for the lights so I just capped that with black tape. Don't need it. Took the black wire and grounded that to one of my engine stand posts. Took the red, white, and green wires and connected those to their respective positions on the CDI. I did not bother with the remaining green wire on the CDI because that is just a kill switch connected to your ignition switch.

That was literally it. Poured some gas into the fuel line. You may want to turn the stator or pull down on the kickstand as that will cause the compression in the engine to pull down some fuel into the crankshaft. Pulled on the choke cable and held it in place with a fourth hand tool and then just stepped on the kick start. Started right up! I thought I was having problems with the flywheel and stator but apparently not. I had a strobe and degree wheel all ready to fix things but I didn't need to do any of that. I didn't pull on the throttle really until I was fired up. Throttled her up and down a bit just to see how she revs and she sounded wonderful.

btw I modified the engine stand and I think the modifications are much better than the original stand and should be almost the same costs. I'll post pics later and instructions.





If you look closely at my old engine stand you will see that it had 3 T's. Two tee's up front and one in back. I used to have a 1/2" threaded rod holding up the front end that was passed through those rods. Problem was the T's didn't allow for the piston chamber to come on and off while on the stand. I had to pass the rod through every time and hold up the engine. Kind of a pain in the ass.

The t in back didn't make me happy because you had the back part of the engine resting on a bolt that was under lots of stress. The position of the T also hit my rear hub and would interfere with a spinning drum. So I wanted to create a mount that looked like the rear shock mount but in reverse.

Here are the changes that I made.

I bought 3 pipe reducer couplings. Going from 3/4" to 1/2". These replaced the T's. and now the posts are UNDER the engine and not on the side of the mounts. Next I found in the lumber yard an A24 angle and bought two of those. This would be for the rear mount. In the electrical section I found 2" conduit support. They have a specific name and they are hard to find. Lowe's had them inside the store but not on their website. I'll look at my receipts when I get home and give you a specific item number. What it looks like is a 2" clamp with one side having bolts. On the bottom is a lag head screw that actually will unscrew from the assembly. This is important.

For the rear support I took the angles and found a 1 1/2" long 3/8" bolt and nut. Put the bolt through the angles, put the nut into the reducer coupling and then tightened up the nut and bolt. The reducer coupling acts as a fairly good washer and I was able to get it it nice and tight. You will need to measure your mounting holes on the engine because you will have to drill a 3/8" hole into the angles for your support bolt to go through. Once you figure that out all you do is mount the coupling on your steel tube. The reducer coupling gives you more height so I would use an 8" post in the back instead of the 10". They way I built mine, all I did was remove the mounting block that I had used before and I got rid of a couple of inches.

The front end was a little easier, mostly you just have to move your posts to go under the engine as opposed to on the sides. Take the conduit clamps and remove the lags head screw. You need two carriage 1/2" bolts about 2" long with nuts and a washer. Put the carriage screw through the opening where the lag head screw used to be, and feed it into the reducer. Put the washer and the nut on the bolt and tighten everything up. Then just figure out the placement under the engine and reset your screws.

The advantages of this are that now when you mount the engine you can just rest it on the c-clamps. No need to be trying to hold the engine and feeding the rod through, a real pain in the ass both while taking the engine on and off for various reasons. No interference with the piston or the rear drum.


Now to install the engine on the body and work out the electrics.